Wines of Spain and Portugal
Spain and Portugal are famous for the two standard fortified wines, Sherry and Port. Lately, Spanish Rioja has been gaining popularity as a high quality red wine.
Spain
Spain is best known for fortified Sherry and red Rioja on the export market. There might be some other stuff as well, but they are harder to find on store shelves.
The Rioja region is the best known region, and produces high quality red wine from Tempranillo and other grapes. Rioja is regarded as Spain's best red wine production. In addition to the regulatory designations, you may also see the terms Vina de Crianza (aged two years, at least one of which is in oak), Reserva (aged at least one year in oak followed by two in bottle), and Gran Reserva (aged at least two years in oak and three in bottle, plus one more year in either oak or bottle).
The Riax Baixas region is best known for Albarino based white wine. Some people suspect that Albarino originates from the Rhine and was brought over a thousand years ago, as the varietal characteristics bear some resemblance to the common German varietals.
The Penedes region is best known for Cavas, a Champagne-like sparkling wine (the well-known Freixenet is Cavas). It also produces table wine from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Garnacha (Grenache), Cabernet Sauvignon, and other standard varietals. Torres, one of Spain's largest producers, is here.
The Spanish regulatory system goes from Vino de Mesa (table wine), to Vino de la Tierra, to Denominacion de Origen (DO; a quality regional wine designation), to the highest Denominacion de Origen Calificada (DOCa). Note that in Catalonia, the DOCa is sometimes Denominacio d'Origen Qualificada (DOQ; Catalan, I think); they are the same thing in wine terms
Sherry
Sherry comes from Jerez and is a fortified wine (fortified with grape brandy) made from Pedro Ximinez, Palomino, and Moscatel grapes. It may or may not be sweet, and the color ranges from light yellow to deep brown. Sherry has a distinctive strange woody oxidized flavor that is unlike any other wine (if your old Chardonnay starts tasting like Sherry, it means it has gone bad).
There are several distinct classes of sherry spanning a broad range in strength and development. An important factor in some sherries is flor, which is the yeast that floats on the surface during fermentation. Sherries are fermented with significant air exposure, unlike every other wine in existence. This accounts (partially) for its unusual flavor.
From lightest color to darkest, we have:
- Fino
- This is light yellow in color and very dry, with full flor development during fermentation.
- Manzanilla
- This is Fino aged by the sea in Sanlucar de Barrameda. They say you can taste the salty influence of the sea air...
- Amontillado
- This is deeper and darker in color, but permits only partial flor development. The concerns raised in Edgar Allen Poe's short story about a Cask of Amontillado are unfounded in real life.
- Oloroso
- Deep brown in color, oloroso is full bodied and anywhere from dry to somewhat sweet. No flor.
- Cream
- Cream Sherry is oloroso that is sweetened with sweet wine made from sun-dried grapes (not quite raisins, but close). It is very sweet and is usually served as dessert wine.
Sherry is not made vintage; the process involves rotating each year's wine through blending and aging with the previous decade or so; the result is wine that comes from a dozen years, added successively, and aged together.
Portugal
Portugal produces a variety of red and white wines, which aren't terribly well known because everyone wants Port, the great fortified wine of Portugal.
In Portugal, the wine regulations include Denominacao de Origem Controlada (DOC; the best), Indicacao de Proveniencia Regulamentada (IPR; a lesser designation), and Vinho Regional (large named region designation). Vinho Regional is not necessarily the lowest designation as the appellation borders are kind of funny, and Vinho Regional allows blending from a broader region that makes more sense. Port has its own set of rules.
All About Port
Port (Porto) is a fortified wine that is produced in the Duoro region in northern Portugal. The fermentation process is stopped prematurely by the addition of brandy, resulting in high residual sugar and about 20% alcohol.
Port tastes sweet but intense, and very heady due to the high alcohol level. It is a deep purple color.
There are numerous levels of Port. Most port is a blend of grapes from several years, but you can also find vintage port on the more upscale end of things. The designations you'll commonly see are:
- Ruby
- This is young port, aged about 3 years.
- Tawny
- This is a blending of older, mature wood-aged ports
- Colheita
- This is port from one vintage aged seven years in wood
- Vintage
- This is port made entirely from grapes in one year, and bottled after two years in wood. Vintage port should be allowed to age in the bottle for a couple decades before consumption. A producer might not make a vintage port for every year; this is done only on good years.
Vintage port can be very expensive, so watch out.
You'll notice that many port producers have decidedly English-sounding names like Sandeman and Cockburn. This is because the Brits love port, and import it in large quantities, and set up companies to manage production and importation hundreds of years ago. They used to import massive quantities of French and Spanish wines, but for a couple decades around the French Revolution and Napoleonic Wars this was impossible (due to being at war with those countries), so they turned to Portugal, and have been loving it ever since.
Wine Comments
Spain
5 May 2011 Crisp citrus and tropical fruit with a slate finish. Faint hints of melons and grapefruit.
$4 / bottle
8 July 2011 Crisp sharp citrus with crisp melons, honey, and starfruit. Very bracing and refreshing. Fun. Blend of 85% Macabeo, 15% Airen.
$12 / bottle
14 February 2011 Lively fruit and citrus with a faint hint of honey on the finish. Potent.
$14 / bottle
August 2010 Plump and fruity grape jelly with a very soft mouthfeel. Not as crisp as most Albarino.
$14 / bottle
3 October 2009 Bright and fruity with aggressive sour apples and citrus. Very crisp.
$13 / bottle
10 May 2008 Very fruity, dry, and crisp, with abundant citrus and pineapples.
$7 / bottle
3 April 2002 Light and crisp fruit flavors, no oak, and a slight citrus and yeast flavor. Relatively simple.
$7 / bottle
6 January 2008 Sweet nectar, white raisins, and almonds. Heady and rich.
$13 / 500ml
16 October 2007 Blend of Parellada/Macabeo/Xarel.lo/Muscat 20/20/25/35. Riesling-like floral fruit, light tropical hints, slightly sweet, very short and watery finish.
$8 / bottle
26 July 2011 Sharp citrus fruit with hints of pear and honey. Strong minerality. Odd but faint barnyard and mushroom notes on the finish.
$12 / bottle
2008 Medium fruit with a smooth buttery texture. Light riesling-like nectar and floral notes.
$14 / bottle
2 April 2002 Light, smooth, fruity, with grape, pineapple, citrus, and other tropical flavors. Medium finish. Uncomplicated.
$15 / bottle
14 December 2007 Dense, sweet peach, melons, honey, and nectar. Thick texture, bright on the tongue, heady.
$14 / bottle
21 July 2010 Bright strawberries and grapes over a light jelly finish.
$9 / bottle
24 August 2011 Very bright cherry and raspberry fruit with sweet plums and decent tartness. Faint hints of potpourri and hickory on the finish. Headier than expected.
$11 / bottle
15 July 2011 Juicy fruit and grape stems on the attack, with weird fungal notes. Hollow in body and lackluster finish.
$6 / bottle
2003 Thick, jammy texture, with mushroom and leather flavors. Claret style. Tasty.
$10 / bottle
10 November 2008 Dark plummy fruit. Powerful but smooth tannins, with toasted vanilla wood in the finish. Rich flavors coat the mouth for a finish that refuses to leave. More powerful and bigger than expected, and gets better as you go.
$20 / bottle
18 September 2011 Rich ruby fruit with toasted vanilla and mild incense and perfume. Velvety smooth mouthfeel with a hint of tea on the finish. Well-balanced.
$25 / bottle
24 February 2009 Dark and bloody fruit with a slight perfumed touch in the finish. Subdued fruit and surprisingly heady.
$13 / bottle
23 October 2007 Bold plummy fruit, international style, firm stemmy tannins.
$12 / bottle
3 July 2011 Tart fruit with hints of strawberry and raisins. Light potpourri on the finish. Engaging and approachable.
$15 / bottle
25 June 2011 Soft and easygoing cherry fruit with hints of plum and raisin. Light and soft tannins.
$9 / bottle
5 November 2007 Forward fruit, stemmy tannins, bloody mouthfeel like Sangre de Toro but not as approachable. Rough and harsh.
$7 / bottle
17 August 2007 Bold and spicy with long tannins and very pure fruit.
$8 / bottle
14 October 2011 Powerful jammy fruit with strong tannins. Layers of licorice and vanilla. Hot, heady, and alcoholic.
$25 / bottle
7 July 2010 Bright and fruity, with tart raisins, potpourri, and robust tannins. Bold and pleasant.
$9 / bottle
25 August 2007 Dry and fruity with light incense and smoke flavors. Tasty.
$8 / bottle
6 April 2011 Juicy cherry fruit with hints of leather and tobacco in the finish. Moderate tannins and very dry finish. Easygoing.
$8 / bottle
11 October 2007 Dark fruit and strong but not overpowering tannins with leather and oak notes. Very dry but very easy drinking.
$7 / bottle
8 November 2008 Soft, fruity, and jammy with strong potpourri and raisin flavors. Delicious.
$9 / bottle
2004 Biting attack, with strong wood ash flavor and very plummy fruit. Warm and heady.
$11 / bottle
3 April 2002 Fruity with dark incense and smoke flavors with spicy wood. Medium body and intensity, with fascinating cherry and blackberry fruit. Soft, with a medium finish.
$10 / bottle
April 2004 Spicy, heavily oaked chocolate wood. Deep musky aroma with incense and some astringency.
$19 / bottle
April 2004 Racy cherry, tea, and leather. Rather astringent, with prominent spicy oak. Warming.
$9 / bottle
4 October 2007 Rich smoke and incense nose with supple dark fruit and smooth mouthfeel, serious but still easy drinking. Excellent and accessible.
$14 / bottle
28 April 2006 Strong and bracingly tannic, dry and bloody.
$13 / bottle
21 December 2005 Dark and smoky, with tea and mint tones over heavy earth.
$10 / bottle
26 May 2011 Sweet raisins and prunes with a bit of petrol. Hot and heady. Relatively little wood.
$18 / bottle
26 July 2010 Rich dark sun-dried raisins and molasses. Extremely smooth mouthfeel and very mellow with abundant wood. Clean fruit with minimal earthiness and nuts.
$43 / bottle
10 May 2008 Pure liquid raisins, heady with a nutty wood feel.
$21 / 735ml
19 July 2007 Dark and syrupy sweet raisins with toasty nuts and faint mushrooms. Powerful and sweet, very rich, long finish.
$?? / bottle
3 April 2002 Strong nutty flavor, and a primary flavor best described as shitake mushroom. Long and lingering. Very strong and intense.
$11 / bottle
31 May 2004 Off-dry, with a deep toasty wood flavor and roasted almonds.
$13 / bottle
2003 Rich nutty flavor, with strong wood undertones. Thick, syrupy texture, very intense and alcoholic.
$14 / bottle
31 December 2007 Somewhat coarse texture with explosive citrus and green flavors, especially apples. Tart but with a slight hint of sweetness in the long finish.
$19 / bottle
1 May 2002 Coarse texture, rather light and simple grape and citrus flavors. Somewhat acid and rather simple.
$9 / bottle
Portugal
3 April 2002 Muted fruit, with a slightly spicy and astringent impression. Light wood flavors with berry fruit dominate. Medium to full body, and slight potential for aging.
$10 / bottle
16 July 2010 Zesty dark fruit with a bold attack and a surprisingly mellow mouthfeel. Dark cherries and berries with wood backing.
$22 / bottle
2003 Old and leathery, with pepper notes and dense earth and tar and a touch of licorice. Chewy and pleasant, but with a surprisingly short finish.
$10 / bottle
16 May 2010 Zippy and tart with a slightly bloody mouthfeel. Hints of raisin on the finish. No wood. Grapes are mostly Periquita (Castelao) with small amounts of Aragonez (Tempranillo) and Trincandeira (Tinta Amarela).
$8 / bottle
13 March 2007 Cloyingly soft and mellow, with simple tannin and fruit and a dry mouthfeel.
$7 / bottle
15 March 2009 Light and bland fruit with a hint of sour apples in the finish.
$6 / bottle
31 March 2009 Effervescent and refreshing crisp, with yeast, cirtus, and mellon flavors. Tart finish.
$?? / bottle
24 January 2005 Very effervescent, high acid, brutally tart but not unpleasant, with Champagne-like yeast and honeysuckle notes.
$5 / bottle
2003 Light and effervescent, with bracing acidity and tart crispness. A touch biting and green. Requires food.
$7 / bottle
December 2009 Bright and clean raisins with moderate wood, with a mellow and slightly musty finish.
$15 / bottle
12 January 2009 Dark sweet raisins and surprising amounts of wood for a ruby. Exceptionally heady.
$32 / bottle
1 June 2009 Bright raisin fruit with somewhat muddled wood. Unremarkable.
$12 / bottle
3 April 2002 Sweet grape and raisin flavor, exceptionally smooth. Heady and strong, with a raisin and date finish.
$15 / bottle
8 January 2007 Dense raisin, date, and nuts over moderate wood. Smooth.
$50 / bottle
21 March 2010 Bright sweet raisins with a slight hint of nuts and oxidation on the finish. Relatively simple.
$11 / bottle
13 March 2008 Fruity dark raisins, light wood. Dry and spicy. Very heady and alcoholic.
$12 / bottle
11 January 2008 Off-dry, rich raisins and dates over intense wood. Heady.
$45 / bottle
15 March 2004 Raisin and plum, with prune and wood incense notes.
$16 / bottle